Fashion+in+17th+Century+England


 * Fashion in 17th Century England **

**Terminology:**

//Jerkin –// A man’s short, close fitting jacket, often made of leather and sleeveless

//Doublet –// The jerkin is often worn over the doublet, a tight fitting long sleeved jacket

// Ruff –// Worn by men, women, and children. A fabric ruffle worn around the neck, supposed to keep the doublet clean, and can be washed separately. The discovery of starch allowed for collars to be wider

//Farthingale// – hoops worn under women’s skirts to support them

//Stomacher// – Decorative triangular panel that fills the front opening of a woman’s gown

//Petticoat// – A simple skirt to be worn under the top decorative skirt part of a dress, meant to keep the shape of a skirt

The 17th century marked a significant change in English politics and social aspects. Fashion was heavily influenced by the opposed parties of the Cavaliers and the Puritans. The Cavaliers were Royalist supporters of Charles I who wore colorful, lavish, ornamented clothing, while the Puritans, English Protestants who opposed Charles, wore simple, subdued clothing as was commanded by their religion. While Puritan dress remained dull and unadorned, popular trends in the court were inspired by French fashion as displayed at King Louis XIV’s court.

**Men’s Fashion** Men’s clothing changed from militaristic attire of the Elizabethan era to a gaudy, overly adorned look. They adopted the Dutch breeches called //Rhinegraves//, which were so loose and full that they resembled skirts, which led to the nickname //Petticoat breeches//. They gathered at the knee and were decorated with patterns, lace, and ribbons. Their breeches fastened to their waistcoats and were sometimes adorned with ribbons and rosettes above the knee. High boots were worn daily, while formal dress slippers with ribbons were worn for formal affairs. Instead of the rigid detachable ruff, a thick collar was added to the jerkin, which was often folded down, and sometimes trimmed with frills and lace. Long velvet cloaks or short capes were added for both sophistication and warmth.

//William Herbert// - Folded down ruff and dark leather jerkin

//King James I -// Folded down lace ruff, a short cape, doublet buttoned down the front with ribbon trim at the waist, Rhinegrave breeches (Petticoat breeches) with ribbons ending them at the knee, adorned slippers for formal occaisions

**Women’s Fashion** In the early part of the century, women still wore whalebone supports or farthingales under their skirts in order to shape the skirt and keep it looking full. This was then replaced with more comfortable thick skirts and petticoats that were trimmed with patterns and lace and circled the bottom of the skirt. The neck of the bodice was cut low and in the shape of a square or oval. Ruffs no longer circled the entire neck but instead extended out from the sides and back of the neck, and were either starched or folded down. The bodice of the gown opened at the front and center. Under the bodice, women wore stomachers, which are boned, corset-like V-shaped section. The stomacher filled the area in the front of the gown from the woman’s chest down to the waistline. It was often adorned with jewels and galloons. //Leg O’ Mutton// sleeves became popular, which were very full at the shoulder and tapered and gathered at the wrist. Women started taking an interest in shoe design in the latter part of the century and began experimenting with colors. They often wore colored silk stockings with either square or round-toed slippers or laced up boots. //Lady Mary Wroth -// Square neckline, Ruff that extends outward behind her, bodice that laces up the front, adorned with numerous ribbons

//Anne of Denmark (King James I's wife)// - Fontange hairstyle, oval neckline, lace ruff, very pronounced farthingale under the skirt, and colorful rosettes detailing the bodice and sleeves Examples of the Leg O' Mutton sleeves

**Makeup and Skincare** Makeup was very popular in the 17th century, with its main purpose being to make women seem paler, as paleness was a sign of wealth. Women also carried collapsible parasols and masks to keep the sun off of them. Makeup creams were made from mixtures of powdered chalk, egg whites, and vinegar. This was not only meant to make them appear paler, but was also meant to make skin appear softer and shinier. Women were often warned not to show too much emotion, as the makeup mask would crack if moved too much. The lips and cheeks were colored in shades of red and pink with fruit juices. A mixture of urine, rosewater, wine, and lemon peels were used to cleanse the skin and clear the complexion. Ironically, however, these concoctions were often the cause of blemishes and scars as they frequently contained lead and mercury. //Mary Fitton (William Herbert's Mistress) -// Rouged cheeks and very pale skin, horizontal neckline with extended ruff, lace adorned stomacher, Leg O' Mutton sleeves

**Hairstyles** During this time period there were two very trendy hairstyles called the //Hurluberlu// and the //Fontange//. The Hurluberlu became popular because of King Charles I’s wife Henrietta Marie. In this style, hair was parted down the middle, flattened, and curled into tight ringlets around the crown, on each side of the part. The longer pieces of hair in the back were curled and left loose. King Louis XIV of France’s mistress, the Duchesse de Fontange, accidentally created the style Fontange. It is told that during a hunting trip her hat fell of and her hair was ruined, so she temporarily fixed it by piling her curls on her head and tying it with a ribbon. The king liked the hairstyle so much that women around her saw it and began copying it. This hairstyle was later adapted into head peices, where the hair and headpieces were wired up horizontally. These were frequently complained about because they slipped out of place. Both of these hairstyles were exclusively worn by the rich, while the poor opted for more practical styles.

//Henrietta////Maria (King Charles I's wife) - m//ade the Hurluberlu hairstyle popular Another example of the Hurluberlu A drawing of the //Duchesse de Fontanges// after her hunting trip A later adaptation of the Fontange, where hair was curled and piled on top of the head and adorned with a headdress

--Genevieve Rupp

**Works Cited**

"17th Century Fashion." //17thcenturyfashion.com//. 3 Oct. 2010. Web. 30 Nov. 2010. .

"Early 17th Century Costume and Dress - 1589 - 1643." //Oldandsold.com//. Web. 29 Nov. 2010. .

Kipar, Nicole. "Female Baroque Clothing." //Kipar.org//. 1998. Web. 30 Nov. 2010. .

Kipar, Nicole. "Male Baroque Clothing." //Kipar.org//. 1998. Web. 30 Nov. 2010. .